Dine at the Turtle Restaurant, Honfleur

Before visiting Honfleur, Normandy, for the day I looked at a French website to see if there were any reviews of restaurants in the town. All I found, however, was a piece of advice that recommended avoiding the restaurants on the waterfront, which it described as 'tourist traps', and seeking out a restaurant in one of the side streets. My 'Rough Guide to France' was too heavy to take along, so I copied out the names and addresses of one or two restaurants that it listed. Unsurprisingly for a fishing port, they all seemed to specialise in seafood.

We spent about an hour and a half wandering around Honfleur and were amazed at the number of restaurants there are; you are certainly spoilt for choice, and if a bucket of mussels floats your boat you are in for a treat. We stopped and looked at one or two menus, including that of La Tortue (The Turtle) on the rue de l'Homme de Bois. It seemed particularly attractive, housed in one of the many old timber-frame buildings, and the set menu prices were also appealing since we weren't looking to spend a fortune. About half an hour later we hadn't seen anywhere that took our fancy more, but weren't sure if we could find our way back. As it happened, I recognised one or two shops in the same street and it wasn't long before we were having another look at the menu outside La Tortue, which is displayed in both French and English.

Lunch is normally served between noon and 2pm in France, and when we arrived at La Tortue at around 1pm the ground floor was already full. We were shown to the upstairs dining area and had the choice of any table. Soon after that a young couple arrived and a few minutes later a party of three. All of them were French speakers. There are actually two rooms upstairs and they can be booked for business lunches or dinners; the smaller one seats ten and the larger one twenty. We were seated in the larger of the two. I have mentioned that this was a timber-frame house, as are so many of the buildings in Honfleur which date from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. It was an original touch that the exposed beams in the restaurant had been painted red in the section where we were sitting, whilst in another area they retained the natural dark colour of the wood. A great deal of thought has obviously been put into the décor at La Tortue, with oriental artefacts and ornaments such as teapots complementing more modern western works of art. There were white linen tablecloths with square red napkins that matched the colour of the wooden beams.

At lunchtime there is a set menu at 19 Euros for three courses or 14 Euros for two courses (either a starter and main course or main course and dessert) followed by coffee. We decided to go for the 14 Euro option with main course and dessert. For the main course the choice was between pork fillet, hake in creamy cider sauce, poached salmon or a seasonal vegetarian option. (The vegetarian set menu is actually 17 Euros for three courses.) We both ordered the salmon. For dessert I chose 'coussinet de pomme sauce caramel', or apple in filo pastry with caramel sauce. My son deliberated between chocolate mousse and meringue with caramel sauce and custard, eventually picking the mousse. We had seen fruit juice mentioned on the menu and were very surprised to hear that there was no apple juice, as we had walked past goodness knows how many shops selling local apple juice and cider that morning. It didn't really matter, though, and we decided on pineapple juice instead. This was 4 Euros per glass.

Drinks arrived quickly, and the waiter said he would be back with a jug of water. A small basket containing four slices of baguette was also brought. It wasn't long at all before our main courses were served, this time by a different gentleman who I think was the restaurant owner. He was very quick to take our knives and forks away and return with fish knives and forks, a rarity these days. The salmon was served with a blend of olive oil and a creamy sauce, with a small portion of white rice and another of vegetables that consisted mainly of green beans, yellow peppers and thin strips of carrot – the colours had been very carefully considered. It was absolutely delicious. The salmon was very tender and cooked to perfection, and the sauce was one of the best I have ever tasted. I resisted the temptation to have any bread as I wanted to leave room for dessert.

Our plates were cleared and shortly afterwards the desserts were served. I was a little surprised to be given a spoon, fork and knife to eat mine with, but I did in fact need the knife to cut the filo pastry at the bottom. The caramel sauce was very rich, and a sprinkling of grated pistachio nuts made an interesting touch, both visually and in terms of flavour. At least the apple made me feel not too guilty about having a dessert that probably contained quite a few calories. The chocolate mousse was served as two thin slices, artistically overlapping each other. Heaven for the taste buds, we both agreed, and beautifully presented too.

Coffee was served in tiny, tall, slender cups along with a small wrapped plain chocolate, just the kind I like. I heard a lady at another table asking if she could have a tisane instead of coffee, and this did not pose a problem.

The toilets are upstairs which would of course not be suitable for disabled people. They are, however, very clean and more modern than you might expect in such an old building!

The service was excellent, extremely efficient, and I have no complaints at all about it. After we had been given the bill, which came to 36 Euros altogether, I went downstairs and gave the waiter 40 Euros. He seemed to be about to give me some change and looked a little surprised when I said there was no need for change but I would like to keep the receipt. I had read that service is included in restaurant bills in France, but it did not actually state this and I thought it best to leave the 4 Euros anyway considering how much we had enjoyed our lunch.

After I returned home I discovered that the restaurant has its own website, and had I visited it before my trip it would have encouraged me even more to have lunch at La Tortue. There is a brief video with a commentary in French and background music by Erik Satie, who was born just a stone's throw from the restaurant. The commentary tells you that the restaurant was named La Tortue after two people who, according to legend, fell in love on Turtle Island and vowed to open a restaurant in Honfleur. The owner of the restaurant appears in the video, explaining how quickly he made the decision to buy the house and open his restaurant there. He says that he wants his clientele to feel as though they are at home there and that he has decorated it in such a way as to promote this feeling. I think he has been very successful.

I was interested to see that the dessert I chose, the coussinet de pomme sauce caramel, is mentioned on the website as being one of the specialities. Savoury specialities are said to be sea bass fillet with tomato coulis, as well as foie gras pan fried in cider vinegar. There is also a mention of the fact that a menu specially for children is available. The website states that the restaurant is included in the Michelin Guide as well as the Guide du Routard.

I would definitely recommend a visit to this restaurant if you are in Honfleur; what I cannot vouch for of course is how busy it is in the evenings and whether or not a reservation is necessary for dinner. To anyone travelling to and from Le Havre, a stop in Honfleur is a delight if you have a little time on your hands, and lunch or dinner at La Tortue will enhance your visit. I sincerely hope I have the chance to go back one day.

La Tortue

36 rue de l'Homme de Bois

14600 Honfleur

France

Open every day from April through to September. Closed on Monday evenings and all day Tuesday from October until March.

http://www.restaurantlatortue.fr/

Tel. 02 31 81 24 60

Who are you calling an oddball?

Although situated just round the corner from Southsea's main shopping precinct, Oddballs restaurant and wine bar had somehow eluded us for almost ten years. I was meeting one of my sons for Sunday lunch and was determined to try somewhere new, and Oddballs seemed to be the obvious choice, especially since it offers a reasonably priced, varied menu.

We arrived just after 12.30pm and were told that we could choose any table we liked, apart from one that was reserved. We picked a small table by a window, and menus and a wine list were brought straight away. Soft drinks were not listed, but the waiter reeled off a list and we both chose cranberry juice (£2).

We decided to skip starters, but there was a good choice available from, for example, a vegetarian soup of the day (£3.95), warm salad of chorizo, bacon and mushrooms with parmesan and balsamic dressing (£4.75), or toasted garlic focaccia (£2.95).

Main courses ranged from pasta of the day (£6.95), salmon and spinach fish cakes with salad (£7.95), spinach, tomato and pine nut tart with new potato and spinach salad and kalamata olive oil dressing (£7.95) to wild boar sausages with creamy mashed potato and port wine jus (£7.95). I was very tempted by the fish cakes, but roast beef and chicken were on offer too since it was Sunday. I hadn't had a roast for so long that I opted for the chicken (£8.95) and so did my son.

It was roughly half an hour before our food was served, but we were not in any hurry. We each had three good size pieces of chicken breast, one of which was wrapped in streaky bacon. As well as this there was stuffing, a mini Yorkshire pudding (which I hadn't expected with chicken), several small roast potatoes and plenty of gravy. A dish of vegetables to share was served separately; this consisted of cabbage, broccoli, leeks, one cauliflower floret, a couple of slices of carrot and one large slice of courgette. The waitress asked if we would like cranberry sauce, and we said yes.

We both agreed that it was an excellent roast. The was a generous amount of chicken, and it was very tender. The roast potatoes were very crisp and crunchy on the outside but still soft inside. I appreciated the variety of vegetables, and they certainly were not overcooked. The gravy and stuffing were both delicious. I had no complaints about the Yorkshire pudding, but I just couldn't finish it.

If you have the Sunday roast you can have two courses for £10.95, so the idea of dessert did seem tempting. The problem was that neither of us really had any room left. We did look at the menu, which tried to entice us with three scoops or ice cream or sorbet (£3.95), cheese and biscuits with red onion chutney and grapes (£5.25), or various other desserts including cheesecake, chocolate brownie, fruit sponge pudding with custard or raspberry crème brulee with shortbread (all at £4.50). We managed to resist all of these, however. Instead, my son ordered a brandy (£3) and I decided on a cappucino (£2.35) having studied the various coffees listed on a board at the bar. I am not easily pleased where coffee is concerned, but this cappucino turned out to be a particularly good one.

Our bill came to £27.25, so with a tip added it worked out at £15 each for an excellent roast and two drinks. For those with larger appetites, there is a set menu at £12.95 for two courses or £15.95 for three. A board on the wall advertised Saturday lunch at £5 for dish, which surprised me as restaurants offering special deals usually exclude Saturdays.

A couple of weeks later four of us visited Oddballs at around 4.30 on Saturday afternoon and were pleased to find that the £5 a dish offer was available until 5pm. We each ordered a glass of fruit juice and chose from a varied list of main courses. The pan-fried liver was off, but none of us would have wanted that anyway. Pasta of the day was linguine with chicken, bacon and mushrooms. I decided on chicken caesar salad with crispy pancetta, one of my sons went for chilli beef nachos with cheese and jalapenos, the other opted for roasted vegetables in pitta bread with hummus and salad, and his partner chose deep fried hake in beer batter with home-made chips.

We didn't have such a long wait this time as we had had on the Sunday. All of us enjoyed what we had ordered, although the roasted vegetables (courgette, aubergine, onion, pepper and tomato) weren't very filling, and another dip was substituted for the hummus. My salad included anchovies as well as the crispy pancetta, and a small serving of salad came with the fish and chips. It was very good value at £5 a head.

Not having overspent on the main course, we decided we would have dessert this time. Two ordered a chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce, one was unable to resist the temptation of vanilla and chocolate cheesecake, and I picked cassis sorbet as the lightest option. All of these were beautifully presented with a strawberry, another unidentified small fruit, and a dusting of icing sugar. They were delicious too. My sorbet had one or two whole blackcurrants inside and came with a sprinkling of grated chocolate to complement the fruit flavour. The sorbet was £3.75 whilst the other desserts were £4.50 each. Our total bill came to just over £47, not including service.

I would gladly return to Oddballs again one day, and my son felt it would be the ideal place to bring his partner's family, especially since the menu offers a good varied choice. The atmosphere of the place is welcoming and relaxed. We liked the combination of the open brickwork and the deep pink walls, although I think a few prints or paintings would improve the décor as at the moment there are rather too many blackboards around. The chairs are rather an odd assortment of old wooden ones, so if you like extra comfort you might not be impressed. Two or three large plants intertwine with fairy lights, and the main lighting is very soft, coming from wall lights rather than from the ceiling. If the music were any louder it might disrupt conversation, but as it was I did not find it objectionable.

The waiter and waitress dress very casually but are welcoming, polite and efficient. They asked us both during and after our meal if everything was to our satisfaction. I have to admit that the restaurant was not particularly busy at the time of our visit, but I had the feeling that they were out to please in whatever way they could.

There are three steps up to the toilets, which would obviously not suit anyone in a wheelchair. There were also two or three tables in that raised area, but a carved wooden screen made the door to the toilets more discreet. The ladies was not luxuriously decorated but it was perfectly clean.

I did notice a couple of highchairs, so babies are presumably welcome. Whilst we were there an elderly lady was having lunch on her own. I got the impression that she was a regular customer and the waiting staff were certainly being very friendly towards her.

Oddballs may not be the smartest or most stylish restaurant in the area, but neither is it the most expensive. It is very close to Southsea's Palmerston Road shopping precinct and just a few minutes' walk from the Southsea Castle area of the seafront. I would recommend it to families, couples or single people looking for a welcoming atmosphere, a varied menu and reasonable prices. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

Oddballs

12 Clarendon Road

Southsea

Hampshire

Tel. 023 9275 5291

Portsmouth's corner of Paris

quite often go for lunch in Southsea on a Saturday, but on this occasion I needed to visit Blackwell's bookshop near Portsmouth University, so it was a good opportunity to have lunch at the nearby Cafe Parisien for a change. As the Cafe is popular with university students and staff, I thought perhaps Saturday would be a relatively quiet day there, but it was pouring with rain and blowing a gale so the outside tables could not be used, and even at 1.30pm the place was packed with people inside. We nevertheless managed to find a table for three and then went to queue up and place our order.

The menu is written on blackboards above the counter and looks a little confusing at first, but it is quite easy to find the appropriate section, depending on whether you want soup, a plat principal/cooked meal, a salad (choice of twelve), a croque monsieur or some other kind of sandwich. Main meals include salmon, cod, sirloin steak, and chicken, as well as one or two vegetarian options. I remembered that just over a year before I had had 'Number 12', consisting of open ciabatta, scrambled egg, smoked salmon and cream cheese for £6.95, and my son and I both decided we still liked the sound of it. I quite often choose salmon when I have a meal out, and I never buy eggs for myself so scrambled egg makes a change. I was tempted by cappuccino but then decided that fruit juice would be healthier and thought that carrot and apple juice with ginger sounded unusual. My son's partner ordered a three-egg omelette with chips, and we decided to share an extra plate of chips between us. Several varieties were available, including French, curly or thin, but we chose Belgian fries which are the chunky kind, served with red onion, ketchup and mayonnaise.

Having paid, we seated ourselves at our table with our drinks. It was big enough for three but would be a squeeze for four, unless for drinks only. There is just enough room to make your way between tables. The chairs are of a similar kind to those of Cafe Rouge, comfortable enough but with a rounded back which annoys women such as myself who have shoulder bags that slip off and end up on the floor.

Whilst waiting for the food, I tried my carrot and apple juice with ginger and was delighted by the combination of sweet and spicy flavours. The only problem was that the fruit and vegetable solids sink to the bottom of the glass and the juice at the top is rather watery, reminding me of a fruit juice I'd once had at Wagamama. These drinks are probably very healthy, but it's difficult to drink them through a straw – or directly from the glass, for that matter.

We had been given an empty wine bottle in which stood a numbered wooden spoon to identify our order, and it wasn't long before a waitress brought our food over. The main dishes were served on oval plates, with the Belgian fries on a round plate. There was just enough room on the table. I enjoyed having the Number 12 as much as I had on the previous occasion; the scrambled egg was just the right consistency and the smoked salmon provided a good contrast to the egg and cheese. It is for me, however, with the four pieces of ciabatta, a very rich and filling meal. It was all I could do to sample a few of the fries, and I thought that a side salad would perhaps have been a more sensible choice. I do always tend to say, though, that I have a smaller than average appetite.

I certainly would not have been able to manage a dessert that day, but I have had very good cookies there in the past, and I saw someone at a nearby table with a mouth-watering slice of chocolate cake. I might try that one day, but I shall have to have a salad as my main meal! The fruit tarts also look very tempting and would be slightly healthier than cake, of course. Coffees at Le Cafe Parisien are the Lavazza variety and are excellent. I haven't tried the smoothies myself but have it on good authority that they are delicious. If tea is your preference, there is a wide variety of Twinings on the menu.

A few weeks later I met my son at Le Cafe Parisien for a late breakfast, this time at about 11.30am on a Saturday. It was much less crowded; again the weather was utterly dismal, so the outside tables were not being used. I was wondering about trying an omelette this time, but eventually we both decided that the full vegetarian breakfast (£6.95) would be more varied. There was a choice of brown or white bread or toast, and we both chose brown toast. As it was a chilly day, I ordered a regular cappucino at £2.10 and my son went for an indulgent hot chocolate sprinkled with mini marshmallows and chocolate powder. (His excuse is that he has IBS and coffee upsets him!).

We sat ourselves at a small round table by the window – not that the view is anything to speak of. The drinks were up to our expectations, even though I'm hard to please where coffee is concerned. After a while our breakfasts arrived along with two slices each of toast and butter on separate plates, of course. We each had two fried eggs, a large half tomato, two veggie sausages, two hash browns and a generous serving of sliced button mushrooms. It was delicious, perhaps the mushrooms having the best flavour of all, although there was nothing I could fault. It was as much as I could do to have one slice of my toast, but my son had polished everything off by the time I was only halfway through my lunchtime breakfast. As neither of us was in a hurry, we lingered and had a glass of Appletiser each. By half past twelve there were still a few vacant tables.

One thing I particularly like about Le Cafe Parisien and that sets it apart from other restaurants is that it gives local artists the opportunity to exhibit and sell their work on its premises. My brother, who paints as a hobby, had an exhibition there in the summer of 2007. He was selling his canvases in aid of a local fisherman's charity and most of the work was bought on the evening of the private view. I hope that others who are trying to make a living as an artist have had as much success with their exhibitions at the Cafe.

If you are visiting the New Theatre Royal on Guildhall Walk or the Guildhall itself, Le Cafe Parisien would be the ideal place for a pre-show dinner as it is only a couple of minutes' walk away. It is also very close to the Ibis Hotel, Commercial Road shopping centre and Portsmouth and Southsea station. Worth mentioning is the special offer on Tuesday evenings of two steaks for £12.95. On weekdays during the day it is a popular place for university folk, although it does have to compete with the Via Lattea and the Students' Union.

Le Cafe Parisien has its own website that gives plenty of information on menus, exhibitions and other special events. I recommend a visit if you are in the area.

Le Cafe Parisien

1 Lord Montgomery Way

Portsmouth

PO1 2AH

Tel. 023 9283 1234

lecafeparisien.com

A gem of an art gallery

Housing one of the finest collections of modern British art outside of London, Pallant House Gallery is situated in Chichester, close to the cathedral and main shopping centre. Coming myself from a larger city in which I am sure it would be difficult to see the work of a major artist, I was quite astounded to find the Pallant Gallery tucked away in a little side street, yet boasting the ownership of works by Richard Hamilton, Peter Blake, Patrick Caulfield, Eduardo Paolozzi and Frank Auerbach amongst others.

This is a gem of a gallery, and it is no surprise that it was awarded the Gulbenkian Prize for Museum of the Year in 2007. At the time of my visit the gallery was holding a temporary exhibition centring around Colin St John Wilson, a collector and architect, and another entitled The Artist at Work: William Coldstream and Michael Andrews. The connection between the two is that Colin St John Wilson wrote a book based on his experiences of sitting for a portrait by both Coldstream and Andrews. Wilson, who died in May 2007, was essentially an architect, and it was fascinating to see his plans and model for the first phase of the British Library, a building that I have not yet visited but certainly wish to, having seen this exhibition. One large photograph of the interior of the library could be seen from two rooms away through two open doorways; I must have toured a good few art galleries in my life, but I have never seen anything quite so cleverly thought out as this. Equally striking were sketches and a colour photograph of a library that Wilson designed for a primary school in memory of his father. Its design is based on that of a mausoleum, and whilst this may sound somewhat morbid, what first caught my eye were the vivid primary colours used in the interior which made me feel that it must be a pleasure to spend time in this library, especially for young children.

I particularly liked the feel of the gallery in terms of its small scale that gave an intimacy with the works of art. The individual rooms have quite low ceilings, and several of them are no bigger than the rooms of a house. There were quite a few visitors, yet I never had to wait long to be able to stand right in front of a particular work and enjoy the details of it without being jostled by other viewers. In one room there was even a small window, allowing not only a view on the outside world but also the opportunity to see a piece of sculpture and a painting with the natural light of day falling upon them, as you might if you owned them yourself. It was also fascinating to see sketches, plans and preliminary drawings alongside finished works of art, a feature that is usually missing from grander galleries such as the Tate.

The modern art is displayed on Level 2, but from Level 1 there is access to the Historic Collections in the older part of the building. Somehow an Andy Goldsworthy sculpture has found its way into one of the fireplaces here, so you never know quite what to expect. Those who prefer traditional art to contemporary sculpture and painting will feel more at home in this part of the gallery.

Tours of the gallery are offered, and one was in fact in progress as we entered Room 10 that Saturday afternoon. This room focusses mainly on Pop Art by artists such as Peter Blake (designer of the sleeve for the Beatles' Sergeant Pepper album) and Richard Hamilton. I have never been a fan of guided tours, and I was a little dismayed to hear the guide refer to Mick Jagger as 'one of the Beatles', but I'm sure this was a slip of the tongue and that she genuinely knows her stuff! There is no extra cost for guided tours, and they take place on Thursdays at 6pm and on Saturdays at 3pm. On the final Saturday of each month, a British Sign Language Interpreter accompanies the tour. There are also occasional tours of temporary exhibitions on weekdays; there is an extra charge for these, ranging from £4 to £6 (with a discount for students), but either morning coffee, afternoon tea or a glass of wine in the case of an evening tour are included in the price.

Talks take place on Thursday evenings at a cost of £7 (half price for students) which includes a glass of wine. These are given by distinguished speakers such as art historian and author William Feaver and M J Long, partner and wife of Colin St John Wilson. There is also a talk by a gallery guide at 11am on the last Wednesday of the month on an individual work of art; attendance for this is free once you have a ticket for the gallery. A workshop follows the Wednesday morning talk, during which participants are encourage to 'respond creatively to works under guidance from an experienced arts educator'. ( A quote from the gallery's leaflet.) It costs £6 to take part in each workshop and you have to bring your own art materials.

Another opportunity to develop your artistic skills if you already have some experience is offered on some (but not all) Sunday afternoons in the Art Masterclass starting at either 1pm or 2pm and running until 4pm. These classes are given by artists experienced in various fields such as printmaking, life drawing, experimental drawing, watercolour or acrylic painting. Such classes must be booked well in advance. The current fee is £9, and there may be an additional charge for materials and, in the case of life drawing, for the model. You do, however, need to bring your own basic materials.

Children are not ignored by the gallery, although I didn't see signs of any during my visit that Saturday afternoon. Workshops for children can be booked in advance for Saturday mornings from 10am until 12noon; the cost is £6 per child (next to nothing compared to costs for private tuition). Each workshop is aimed at a particular age group, for instance 5-8 year olds, 9-12 year olds or 13-16 year olds, so you need to check on suitability for your child when you book. Themes range from flowers and pods for the youngest age group through forms in nature or a miniature art gallery for 9-12s to buildings in mixed media or drawing the gallery itself for the teenagers. Pallant House does offer some free workshops led by artists during school holiday periods for children between 5 and 16; each lasts for two hours. There is no need to book in advance for these workshops, but places are limited so it is advisable to attend early for a 10am start or 1pm for the afternoon session.

The bookshop, on your immediate left as you enter the gallery, has an excellent stock of art books, prints, greetings cards, postcards and one or two art materials as well as a small number of books on the local area. Also on the ground floor is the Pallant Restaurant.

The admission fee for Pallant House Gallery is a fairly hefty £6.50, but this does cover any special exhibitions in addition to the permanent collection. You can, however, enter for half price all day Tuesday or on Thursday evenings between 5 and 8 pm. There are discounts for children, students and Art Fund members, whilst the unemployed do not have to pay. A family ticket costs £15 for two adults and up to four children.

The gallery is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am until 5pm, with an extension on Thursday until 8pm; Sunday and Bank Holiday opening hours are from 12.30pm to 5pm. Pallant House is closed on Mondays. The main collection and exhibitions are displayed in the upper levels, but there is a lift as well as stairs.

I would encourage anyone with an interest in art who is either visiting the area or who lives near enough to make a day trip to Chichester to visit Pallant House Gallery. It is only about half a mile from the railway station, and even closer to the bus station, for those like myself travelling by public transport. Parking is available on South Pallant just a few yards away.

A civilised Italian lunch

Finding somewhere for a late lunch on a sunny Saturday afternoon in Chichester might not be an easy thing to do. The crowds were out. We decided to try Pizza Express first, as my son and his partner had recently visited the one in Gunwharf Quays and had been giving me ecstatic descriptions of their new ice cream. On entering, however, we were greeted by rubbish on the floor, balloons here and there, and noise everywhere. We made a quick exit and decided to try Prezzo, which a friend had recommended to me.

What a difference. The restaurant is housed in what was formally the White Horse pub, as can be seen from the stained-glass windows and the odd horse's head dotted around. There are oak beams, pillars and shelving, with lighting from spotlights on the beams. I can imagine that it might be a little dingy on a grey day, but that afternoon there was plenty of sunshine streaming through the windows. Arty vases, painted statues of a nun, a chef and a lady in evening dress amongst others jostled alongside huge jars of pickles and a grandfather clock to decorate the shelves.

There were several free tables, and a waitress showed us to one near the front of the restaurant. I did feel that I sank down a little too far into the leather chair, and I noticed later that the seating further back looked a little more modern. We had scarcely been handed our menus when a waiter came to take our drinks order. My son and his partner ordered fresh fruit juice at £2.30 whilst I chose a Fruitiser at £2.05. We were asked if we would like some marinated olives (£2.45), and we decided we would. The drinks were soon served, but the olives took a few minutes more.

Prezzo's menu has the usual sections you would expect to find in an Italian chain restaurant, with starters, pasta, oven pasta dishes, pizza, risotto, specialities and salads. Perhaps the only difference is that Prezzo also has a section for roast chicken dishes, although I understand that in their newer branches this is replaced by a section for calzone, or folded pizzas. On arrival the waitress had shown us the 'specials' board which featured just one main course: fusilli pasta with asparagus, mushrooms, roasted peppers and green pesto at £7.95. It sounded healthy and I hadn't had pesto for a long time, so I made that my choice. My son opted for traditional lasagne at £8.55, and his partner ordered a pizza with prosciutto ham, mushrooms, marinated olives, fresh rosemary, mozzarella and tomato at £7.95. I was pleased to see that a special knife with a serrated edge was brought after the pizza was ordered, as I have often had difficulty cutting through pizza with the usual blunt restaurant knives.

The olives arrived in a small, narrow dish; there were a mixture of black and green. We savoured these whilst awaiting our main courses. Conversation was easy as the music was not too loud. I felt as though Pizza Express was on another planet – for a family with young children it would be the obvious choice, but if you want to relax in a more peaceful atmosphere, Prezzo is the place to go.

We didn't have to wait long for our main courses to be served. The waitress offered us grated parmesan, which I accepted, and also chilli oil for the pizza. My dish of fusilli pasta was huge, and delicious as it was, I was unable to finish it. I made sure I didn't leave any of the peppers, asparagus or generous mushroom slices, but good as the pesto was, it didn't allow me to get through all the pasta. My son was so enthusiastic about the lasagne that it made me think I would have to sample it next time I visit Prezzo. The pizza was good too: not too thick, and the slice of ham had been left whole, folded, and then covered with cheese. We had no complaints.

We asked to see the dessert menu and found that there were two kinds of cheesecake, pannacotta, sticky toffee pudding or fudge cake, all for either £4.25 or £4.50. Then, below these, we noticed

ice cream and hazelnut bombe, vanilla ice cream covered in chopped hazelnuts with a meringue centre, for a mere £2.95. Feeling rather full already, we all three opted for the ice cream bombe. It wasn't long before the desserts were brought in frosted glass dishes with long spoons. We all agreed that we had made the right choice. None of us ordered coffee, but I did noticed that all the hot drinks were priced under £2 which I feel is very reasonable compared to most establishments.

Our bill came to £42.40, to which we added a tip, making it just over £15 a head for two courses plus olives and a drink.

The toilets are at the back of the restaurant on the ground floor, so there are no problems for disabled customers. The ladies was certainly very clean.

The service at Prezzo was extremely polite and efficient throughout the time we were there. We have noticed recently in one or two other restaurants that the service is good initially and through the main course but then drops when we are trying to order dessert or ask for the bill. This certainly was not the case at Prezzo, although I should say that we arrived at 2.30pm and I realise things may be different at busier times.

I hope that I will have the opportunity to visit Prezzo again and lament the lack of a branch in Southsea. I don't know if other Prezzo restaurants are in such pleasant surroundings as the one in Chichester, of course. It isn't an atmosphere that will suit young children, but I would definitely recommend Prezzo to adults looking for good Italian food at reasonable prices in a relaxing environment.

Prezzo

61 South Street

Chichester

West Sussex

PO19 1EE

www.prezzoplc.co.uk

Relaxing in Zurich's Cafes

Situated on the west bank of the River Limmat in Zurich with tables outside, Cafe Wuhre is an ideal place to have lunch on a warm sunny day such as it was at the time of my visit. It was around 1.30pm and notices on the tables advertised lunch from 11am to 2pm only, so we thought we had better check that it was not too late. We asked a middle-aged waitress inside the cafe if she spoke English, but she indicated to us to wait and beckoned a younger waitress. When the younger one came over she told us that we were indeed in time for lunch. We went outside again and found that a table right beside the river had just been vacated, so we sat ourselves down right away. The tables are actually small round ones in rows of three, so one of these remained empty but anyone else arriving would have been free to sit there. We were glad that there were parasols as the temperature that day reached 31 degrees Celsius.

The waitress brought menus, and we all thought salad would be the best thing on a hot day. I chose a tuna salad while my son and his partner both decided on the chicken curry salad. When they asked for a light beer each, the waitress claimed that she would bring the very best Swiss beer. I ordered an orange juice which came in an attractively shaped glass. I do, however, lament the fact that fruit juice in Switzerland almost always comes in a 2 dl (200 ml) serving, which does not go very far in hot weather. A basket of four slices of granary bread was brought at the same time as the drinks.

It wasn't long before the waitress came out with our salads, which were served in round white bowls. My tuna was dressed with herbs and oil, and the accompanying salad consisted of lettuce, cucumber, tomato and onion rings. It was very good, but the memory of the wonderful tuna salad I had had at the Tenth Hole Tearoom was still very vivid, and there was really no comparison. My son and his partner enjoyed their chicken curry salads, which they said resembled coronation chicken and were served with rice and lettuce. I asked if their Cardinal beer was the best they had had in Switzerland, to which they replied that whilst good, they had had a slightly better one the previous day.

Desserts at Cafe Wuhre seemed to revolve mainly around ice cream and cream, and we decided not to let ourselves be tempted.

The location of Cafe Wuhre is perfect in fine weather if you are lucky enough to get a table from which you have a view of the river and the buildings on the eastern side of Zurich, notable the Grossmunster (cathedral) with its two towers. The interior of the cafe looked very comfortable with easy chairs, and original contemporary works of art added to the stylish feel.

There was just one ladies' toilet at the cafe and it was clean enough.

Our bill came to 85 Swiss Francs altogether – about £50. A service charge is added automatically, so there is no need to leave a tip. We were able to pay by debit card.

Cafe Wuhre is in an ideal location, has excellent service and a high standard of cleanliness. I would recommend it, and it is of course a place where you could just stop and relax over a drink if you did not want a full meal.

In the Niederdorf on the east bank of the River Limmat, there is again an enormous number of cafes and restaurants. I can recommend the coffee at Cafe Henrici, where we sat outside in the morning sun. Had anyone shown me the rickety old metal chair I was to sit on there before I travelled, I would have avoided the place like the plague, but when we did sit down it didn't seem to matter. Henrici certainly seemed to be a popular place, and the interior was very stylish in comparison. I went down to the ladies in the basement and noticed a door with several dates on it, the earliest of which was from the fourteenth century. Henrici is actually a hotel but I cannot comment on it as we stated at the Helmhaus, just south of the Grossmunster. It was pricey but I would wholeheartedly recommend it.

By four o'clock in the afternoon we were sweltering and delighted to find that Cafe Kantorei in Neumarkt offered bottles of apple juice that were considerably more generous than the 200 ml servings of fruit juice that most restaurants seemed to offer. Kantorei has quite extensive outdoor seating, and our waiter there was British. He chatted about how expensive Zurich was but assured us that salaries were relatively high too.

Zurich is a wonderful city to wander around, and when your weary feet need a rest and you need to quench your thirst, you will find plenty of pleasant places where you can sit indoors or out and enjoy coffee, beer or a soft drink.

The best wurst in Zurich

Moving away from Southsea briefly, this is a review of the restaurant cum beer hall that I visited during a trip to Zurich, Switzerland, in August 2009.

The Zeughauskeller would not normally be my first choice of restaurant, but it didn't seem right to go, say, to an Italian restaurant in Zurich when I can so easily do so at home. It seemed more appropriate to go to a place that had traditional Swiss/German food along with the atmosphere. The Zeughauskeller is a reasonably priced eaterie situated on the famous Bahnhofstrasse, the street that runs from the central railway station down to Lake Zurich.

We arrived around 7pm to find that all the outside tables were already occupied and a queue was rapidly forming at the door. It was difficult to see the menu without disturbing people at a particular table, but we soon found another just in the doorway. Prices seemed within our means, and there was a special summer menu printed in English as well as German. We waited a couple of minutes and then asked if there was a table for three. The waiting staff all understood English, but some seemed reluctant to speak it. That isn't a complaint, as I am unable to speak more than a few words of German.

A couple more minutes passed, and then a waiter asked us to follow him. He indicated three empty seats at a large round table in a corner that was already occupied by four young adults and a toddler. Apparently it is quite normal to share a table, and it was the only available space so we accepted. The people seated at the table did not seem put out at all. They were speaking English, but the Zeughauskeller is so crowded and filled with the buzz of conversation that you don't really pick up much of what anyone is saying, even at the same table. The toddler was very lively and even climbed up on the wide windowsill at one point.

English menus were brought, and we ordered two Goldsprint beers and an orange juice. The menus consist of several pages, beginning with home-made soup and fresh salad starters. We decided to restrict ourselves to a main course as we knew we would be getting a good breakfast at the hotel the following morning. I chose from the cold plates section where I found Borsensalat, a salad of sliced sausages with a 'delicious sauce' (the words of the menu) served with rosti for 20.50 Swiss Francs (about £12). My son picked Wurst-Kase Salat, a salad of sliced sausages, Swiss cheese and tomato cubes, once again with a 'delicious sauce', and garnished with salad and hard-boiled eggs for 19.50 Swiss Francs. His partner was immediately drawn to the page of sausage dishes where he decided on Wiediker, a pair of pan-fried sausages with herbs and spices, served with potato salad for 17.20 Swiss Francs. Other sections on the menu included specialities of the house which featured fish or red meat dishes ranging in price from 24.50 Swiss Francs to 78 Swiss Francs for a dish for two people. There were also sections for pasta, light dishes and 'tender meat-treats'. A vegetarian would have several choices on the menu.

Our drinks were brought after a few minutes. My one gripe is that most Zurich cafes and restaurants (with the exception of Kantorei in Neumarkt Street) offer fruit juice in 2 dl (200 ml) servings. My orange juice at Zeughauskeller cost 3.50 Swiss Francs, which seems quite pricey for a small glass. Added to that, the weather was very warm and 2 dl isn't really enough to quench your thirst. The beers were 3 dl bottles at 4.40 Swiss Francs each.

We were expecting to wait quite a while for our food as the restaurant was chock-a-block and the other people at our table had ordered before us. As it happened, our meals were served just before theirs, perhaps because less cooking was involved. Portions are generous and come on oval-shaped plates. I had particularly wanted to try the rosti potatoes, which were nicely warm, but was glad of a cold accompaniment because of the weather. The sliced sausages were very tender and I did enjoy them, but the 'delicious sauce' was rather like mayonnaise. After a while I found it a little too rich, and although I finished all the rosti I had to leave some of the sausage slices. My son and his partner both enjoyed what they had chosen. My son's salad was admittedly more varied than mine, but I think he too felt that the sauce could have been a little milder or not served so generously.

It was interesting to see that three of the people at the same table had decided to share one very long sausage with a serving of rosti each. I think the sausage was half a metre long, and it was served on a wooden board with an equally long knife beside it, thus stretching right across the table. I wondered quite what would happen when one of them picked this knife up to cut the sausage, but thankfully they used their individual small knives. I didn't really look that closely, but my son and his partner said afterwards that it didn't look like a particularly good quality sausage. I believe Zeughauskeller also do a metre of sausage for four people to share, but I think that one is coiled. It might be a better bet, however, to order smaller, better quality sausages for one person.

Desserts at Zeughauskeller range from semolina pudding for 6.90 Swiss Francs to Vacherin glace – meringue, ice cream, cream, raspberries and raspberry sauce – for 11.80 Swiss Francs. Ice cream is 3.50 Swiss Francs a scoop. We still had next morning's breakfast buffet at Helmhaus Hotel in mind, so we decided to stop after the main course and ask for the bill. In Switzerland, the service charge is automatically added, and our total came to 70.50 Swiss Francs or 47 Euros. We paid in Swiss Francs in cash. At roughly £14 a head, we felt that it was good value for a large west European city, and that is perhaps partly why the Zeughauskeller is so popular.

The service was efficient, and as I said we had no trouble making ourselves understood in English. The waitresses were not over friendly – they were probably too busy – but one kindly pointed out that my raincoat and shoulder bag were trailing on the floor. She spoke in German but I understood from her gestures.

The Zeughauskeller has dark wooden beams as well as dark tables and chairs, although our table top looked like formica rather than real wood. Decoration includes, of course, a model of a cow high up on the wall opposite the entrance. Zeughaus means armoury, and a howitzer is on view above the door. A found it somewhat threatening, but thankfully I had my back to it.

If you are looking for a romantic dinner for two, the Zeughauskeller wouldn't be the place to choose. If, however, you love sausages, rosti and beer and you want a lively atmosphere, this is the ideal restaurant. I understand that some Zurich restaurants charge considerably more in the evening, but we actually paid slightly less at the Zeughauskeller than we did for lunch at a riverside cafe the following day. Make a reservation if you want to be sure of a table.

Zeughauskeller

Bahnhofstrasse 28a

CH-8001 Zurich

Switzerland