Wagamama, Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth

Having visited Wagamama in Bristol a couple of times, I was enthusiastic about going to the branch that opened in Gunwharf Quays at the end of March. It took me a few weeks to get round to doing so, but I eventually did on a Sunday afternoon in early June. Wagamama is located on the upper level of the waterfront, above Zizzi's and sandwiched between La Tasca and the Slug and Lettuce. The weather was fine and warm enough to sit outside where there is a view of Gunwharf Marina and the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour.

We chose a table that was partly in the sun; there are large black parasols to give shade on the hottest days. The tables have wooden slats and a matching bench either side – there is no back rest, but surprisingly I find this a comfortable way to sit. I did find the bench a little heavy to move back so that I could actually get in, but once there I was fine. Before leaving I went inside the restaurant to the ladies; I was surprised to find several tables on either side with seats that had quite high backrests. Everyone was sitting at the tables that had those seats. They might be pleasantly surprised to find that the benches are more comfortable than they look.

A waitress had to attend to a couple who arrived seconds before us, but she then brought our menus. There was a small printed specials menu which I think is always the same; the crab cakes and kedgeree on this were no longer available. I might well have chosen the kedgeree as I love smoked haddock. The waitress put paper serviettes and a pair of chopsticks each beside a container that held soya sauce, chilli oil and packets of sugar.

It wasn't long before the waitress came to take our drinks order. We both decided on apple and lime juice – my son order a large one (£4.05) but I decided the regular size (£3) would be enough. The drinks at Wagamama are rather pricey, but they are not just juice from concentrate out of a carton. They have a layer of real fruit pulp at the top, and you can tell that they have a lot more goodness in them than run-of-the-mill fruit juice. The tables have a panel down the centre that the waitress writes the numbers of items as you order them with an erasable marker. My son could see the impressions of some numbers that had previously been rubbed off, and said to the waitress that it would tell you what the most popular dishes were! 

We continued to study our menus and decided to order some yasai gyoza (£4.90): five steamed, grilled vegetable dumplings, served with a sweet ginger soy dipping sauce. These were from the side order section, and our idea was to share them. 

Main dishes are priced between £6.45 and £10.45. They are divided into several sections, the majority of which feature noodles: big bowls of noodles in soup, noodles in a coconut based soup, noodles cooked on a hot, flat griddle or noodles in a spicy sauce. There are thick udon noodles as well as thinner ramen noodles. If noodles really aren't your thing, you can choose a rice-based dish or one of three salads. There are quite a few dishes that are suitable for vegetarians, but surprisingly few fish options. Unlike most Indian restaurants, Wagamama offers no western dishes such as steak and chips or omelette, so stay away if you have no desire for Japanese food.

One of my sons was with me and decided to order Miso ramen (£8.45) from the big bowls of noodles in soup section. This consists of 'noodles in a chicken and pork spiced miso soup topped with stir-fried chicken, carrot, leeks, garlic and bean sprouts, garnished with wakame, menma (pickled bamboo shoots), mixed sesame seeds and chilli oil' (quoted from Wagamama's menu). I had in the past few months tried udon noodles both at Wagamama Bristol and Sakura in Southsea, as well as salmon teriyaki at Yo! Sushi. I wanted to try something slightly different this time, so I chose  chicken tama rice (£7.65), grilled chicken breast stir-fried with courgettes, mushrooms, red onions and spring onions in an oyster, garlic and wine sauce, served on sticky white rice.

We then sat and waited, knowing that at Wagamama individual dishes are served as soon as they are ready, and that our main courses might not be served at the same time. So we waited, and we waited. Half an hour passed, which I know is not unheard of, but it is unusual for Wagamama. Fortunately we were not in a hurry and there were some mildly interesting events going on to commemorate D-Day down below on the waterfront.

Eventually the waitress came to apologise, explaining that not one but all the computers had crashed. Apparently it is impossible to prepare and serve food when the computer system is not functioning – that's progress for you in our technological age. I suppose we were lucky to have got our drinks just in time. The waitress assured us that the problem had just been fixed and that food was just beginning to be served again. Sure enough, I saw plenty of it arriving a couple of tables away, and then our yasai gyoza was brought on a stylish curved rectangular white dish. There were five of them, and I decided two would be plenty for me. They were nicely crisp on the bottom and softer on top. The vegetable stuffing was slightly crunchy without seeming undercooked and very tasty. I did enjoy them, but didn't find it very easy to hold on to them with the chopsticks and so didn't really take advantage of the dipping sauce.

It wasn't long before my chicken tama rice arrived, along with a spoon and fork in case I preferred them to the chopsticks. The chicken and vegetables sat on top of a dome of sticky rice, with a sauce the consistency of a clear soup around it. I did of course need the spoon for the sauce which was delicious, although I couldn't honestly detect much of a taste of garlic. The chicken was quite thinly sliced and very tender. The pieces of courgette were rather chunky but well cooked, and there were plenty of slices of red onions and spring onions, again perfectly cooked. The mushrooms were sliced into quite small pieces. I ate all the chicken and vegetables, but the rice proved too much for me and there was so much sauce that I left a little of that as well. Perhaps I shouldn't have had the dumplings, but they were more interesting than the rice.

My son's miso ramen was served soon after I had started eating, and it certainly was a big bowl. I was fascinated by the wooden ladle that came with it – you obviously use that for the soup but have chopsticks for the noodles, meat and vegetables. It was apparently quite spicy but definitely a good choice. Once again, though, it was such a large serving that my son couldn't finish it.

We were both far too full to even consider dessert and had waited longer than expected for our food to be served, so we asked for the bill. It came to £28.05, not including a tip – quite reasonable considering the price of the drinks.

The toilets were very clean and well appointed; the restaurant had of course only been open for just over two months, so I hope the high standard of cleanliness will be maintained.

I am no expert on Japanese food, but I would say that the dishes at Wagamama seem quite similar to those at Sakura, Southsea's traditional Japanese restaurant. The most striking differences are the lack of sushi at Wagamama and, as I mentioned, the limited number of fish-based dishes. If you are in Gunwharf Wagamama makes a change from the ubiquitous Italian chain restaurants and is in an ideal location if you enjoy looking out over the sea. I was happy with the polite and friendly service, although I think we could have been told a little sooner about the reason for the delay in serving our food. Presumably this is not a problem that occurs frequently. Wagamama may not be the favourite for families, although they do have a special children's menu for those who enjoy  Japanese food. I loved the food and hope I will have many an occasion to go back.

Opening hours:

Monday – Saturday 12 noon – 11pm

Sunday – 12 noon – 10pm 

Wagamama

North Promenade

Gunwharf Quays

Portsmouth

PO1 3TR

The restaurant is located on the upper floor at the waterfront; disabled access via the lift next to Vue cinema

Tel. 023 9286 1128

www.wagamama.com

Yo Sushi - Gunwharf Quays

Restaurant chains seemed to have realised that Gunwharf Quays in Portsmouth is the place to be, and hot on the heels of Wagamama came Yo! Sushi at the end of April. Situated opposite Marks and Spencer and next door to Cotton Traders, Yo! Sushi doesn't have the advantage of views from the waterfront, but it makes up for this in other ways.

Having visited Wagamama in Bristol as well as Sakura in Southsea, I wasn't totally unfamiliar with Japanese food, but I was quite unprepared for the conveyor belt experience. I also wasn't sure I would be comfortable sitting on a high chair with a low backrest at a counter, but here I was wrong. The back rest gave good support, and there was at least enough room under the counter for bags. The English waitress who had welcomed us brought menus and asked if we had visited Yo! Sushi before. When we said we hadn't, she explained we could help ourselves to the sushi and desserts that were going round on the double conveyor belt in front of us but that we could call her if we wanted to order hot food. She showed us in the menu that all dishes are priced according to a colour code: they are served on small plates or little shallow bowls with a coloured rim. They go from pale green rims at £1.70 through orange rims at £3.30 up to grey rims at £5 with a couple of others in between. When you finish your meal, the waitress counts how many plates you have of each colour and gives you a slip with details of your drinks as well to take to the till.

The waitress showed us that on the counter there were taps for both fizzy and still water; you can drink as much water as you like for £1. You can also order limitless Japanese green tea for £1.25. My son decided to stick with water, but I ordered a Frobisher's orange juice for £2.30. Yo! Sushi does also offer several wines, sake, Japanese beer, and one or two other soft drinks.

Also on the counter in front of us were a large supply of wooden chopsticks, some wooden teaspoons, glasses for water, a bottle of soya sauce, a pot of wasabi, a container of very thinly sliced fresh ginger, and some very small white dishes for the ginger. The waitress had also shown us that there was a help button you could press to call her. When you do this, the nearest vertical plastic tube, several of which are placed at intervals along the counter, turns from blue to red. Much more fun than having to catch someone's eye!

The waitress left us and we started to look at our menus, which are square booklets with sushi at one end and everything else at the other. There are illustrations of all the items, circled in the appropriate colour so that you can check the price code. I soon decided that I would try the salmon teriyaki, and started to watch the two rows of food passing by on the conveyor belts. They are all covered in transparent plastic domes. I tried to work out what some of the dishes were, but by the time I'd found them on my menu they had gone past! I wondered where the salmon teriyaki was, having already forgotten that hot food had to be ordered from the waitress. My facial expression must have been one of utter confusion, as my son asked me if I wanted to leave. I didn't, but I did feel rather flummoxed. The waitress came back so I ordered my salmon teriyaki and my son asked for a chicken katsu curry. He had already chosen a dish of assorted fish maki (filled rice rolls wrapped in seaweed) from the belt; there were six very small ones, two each of salmon, tuna and prawn with chives. I realised that I was going to have to pick something, but much as I love fish I cannot bring myself to try raw fish. I decided to play safe and grabbed a plate of tamago nigiri – two pieces of rice topped with sweet omelette. The omelette is bound to the rice with a thin strip of seaweed. It was very bland, but I didn't mind this as I had it with some gorgeous fresh ginger and soya sauce. If you aren't keen on ginger, though, stay away – it is a very strong flavour. I passed on the wasabi, which is very spicy.

My son had by that time enthusiastically taken some spicy chicken with grated Asian radish, assorted sprouts and green beans. He also chose a plate of two vegetable futomaki – rice rolls wrapped in seaweed and filled with cucumber, pickled radish, tamago (omelette), carrot and avocado. I tried a tiny piece of the chicken but didn't like the soft consistency, so I agreed to have one of the futomaki rolls. Although I don't normally like either cucumber or radish, I actually enjoyed this. The only problem was actually eating it; I couldn't cut it with the chopsticks so I picked the whole thing up and tried to bite a piece off. Let's just say I'm glad there were no cameras around at that point.

Our hot food was handed to us by a member of the kitchen staff, who work in a central area and are therefore in full view of the customers all the time. The teriyaki salmon was grilled and consisted of three small but quite thick slices, garnished with ginger, cress and a slice of lemon. It was perfectly cooked and absolutely delicious; I can't say I've had better salmon anywhere. My son was impressed by his chicken katsu curry, which is fried chicken on rice with a mild curry sauce and Japanese pickles.

I decided not to overdo the savoury food as the desserts chugging along in front of me were just too tempting. The fresh fruit salad, with slices of pineapple and melon as well as green and purple grapes and a strawberry, looked enticing and healthy, but we decided to try something new with a Japanese slant. My son reached for a plate of mochi – glutinous rice cakes with sweet fillings which are described in the menu as nutritious. I had no hesitation in going for the chocolate mochi, which have a dark chocolate ganache filling and are dusted with cocoa powder. There were two of each, mostly cut in half, so we decided to share them. The ordinary ones were pleasant enough and reminded me a little of marshmallows. The chocolate mochi were absolutely gorgeous, especially the cocoa powder, which had a strong but irresistible flavour. We ate the mochi with chopsticks, except for one that was whole which I cut with a spoon.

When you are ready for the bill, all you have to do is ring the bell and the waitress appears quite promptly. She counted our dishes and gave us a slip of paper with numbers against the colours of the plates, as well as details of the orange juice and water. When we checked, however, it looked as though she hadn't included our desserts, perhaps because the plates were still in front of us rather than stacked in the pile. The waitress came back and adjusted the numbers. Her mistake had been in our favour, but it would always be worth checking in case you are being overcharged.

The bill came to just over £28 to which we added a tip. We paid by card at the till, beside which is a takeaway counter. There were various boxes of sushi available here for around £7 or £8, but it was not fully stocked.

The ladies' toilet was very clean and well appointed. I should perhaps emphasise that the restaurant had only been open for just over forty-eight hours, so I hope the standards of cleanliness will be maintained.

When I went along to the toilets at the back of Yo! Sushi, I noticed that there were a couple of tables with comfortable sofas either side which are presumably intended for larger groups of people. There were a few children around that day, but I didn't see any babies or any sign of high chairs. The restaurant is accessible by wheelchairs.

I have no idea how close the food at Yo! Sushi comes to authentic Japanese food, but I can only say how much I enjoyed it. After my initial confusion, I felt that it was a refreshing change from the usual restaurant experience. Next time I go I will have much more of an idea of what the dishes travelling before me are and what has to be ordered separately. If you have a liking for Oriental food and enjoy variety, I would definitely recommend a visit.

Opening hours

Monday – Saturday: 12 noon until 11pm

Sunday: 12 noon until 10.30pm

Yo! Sushi

79 Gunwharf Quays

Portsmouth

PO1 3TZ

Tel. 023 9280 8110

www.yosushi.com

Feed Caffe, Portsmouth

Feed is a tiny cafe situated under the railway on a stretch of road between two entrances to Gunwharf Quays. I wouldn't have given it a second look had I not found out that it was owned by the same company as the Olivo restaurant in Ryde, Isle of Wight, that had impressed me so much. It had to be worth trying.

My first visit to Feed was at 1pm on a weekday during school holidays, and the place was encouragingly busy. I sat down at the only vacant small table, noticing that the wooden tables and chairs were reminiscent of those at Olivo. A waitress brought me a menu, simply printed on an A4 sheet of white paper, along with a separate sheet for the day's specials. Sausage casserole had, she told me, run out, which was a shame as the sausages at Feed come from Buckwells, Southsea's best butcher. I ordered an orange juice (£1.55) and started to look at the menu.

Feed offers a surprisingly good choice of food whether you want breakfast, a sandwich, a hearty cooked meal or afternoon tea. Breakfasts range from toast and toppers (£3.50) to full English (£5.95) or the Mighty Meaty Feed Breakfast (£7.50) for those with a huge desire for protein. There are three varieties of omelette with which you could have chips and salad or toast and beans (or even toast and chips). Extras can be ordered, for example black pudding (£1.50), baguette (£1.20) or mushrooms (80p).

If burgers are your thing, there are five different choices including a spicy Mexican bean burger (£5.95) and a lamb and mint burger in a toasted ciabatta (£6.95); all are served with chips, coleslaw and mayonnaise. Jacket spuds come with a small salad garnish, homemade coleslaw and butter. Most fillings are £4.75, but the prawn Marie Rose as well as the sausage and bean toppings cost a pound or so more.

Baguettes, sandwiches and wraps are served with coleslaw and diced potato. They range from bacon (£3.50) to prawn Marie Rose (£4.95). The only vegetarian choice is Cheddar cheese and onion (£3.95). If you don't think one of these will satisfy your appetite, you could go for the Feed club sandwich (£7.25), a toasted one with chicken, ham, cheese, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion, mustard and mayonnaise, served with coleslaw and diced potato.

For children there is a Little Fillers Menu. The price of £3.95 includes a drink, and the choices of food are full English breakfast, classic burger, sausage with chips and beans, ham or cheese sandwich with diced potatoes, or two slices of toast with either bacon, eggs or beans.

I considered ordering from the special menu where I liked the sound of the chicken and mushroom tortelloni more than the spicy chicken fajita, but in the end I decided on a veggie breakfast (£5.95). With two veggie sausages, an egg, fried diced potatoes, mushrooms, griddled tomato and toast, this sounded very filling. I only had to wait a few minutes until this was served. It was well presented and looked appetising; my only reservations were that brown or wholemeal toast had not been offered, and no alternative was given to a fried egg. Given the choice, I would have had wholemeal toast and scrambled egg. Portions were generous except for the tomato. The diced potatoes were very small and beautifully crisp, and the button mushrooms had also been sliced into small pieces. The veggie sausages were cooked to perfection. Everything was hot and tasted very good. Had I not had a long walk that morning I might have struggled to finish the veggie breakfast.

Feed do a selection of homemade cakes that sit tantalisingly in the window, but there was no way I could have found room for a slice that day. It will be a good excuse to go back one afternoon and decided whether to be vaguely healthy and go for carrot cake or indulge in coffee and walnut. I also resisted the temptation to try Feed's coffee. As well as espressos, lattes and cappuccinos, they serve hot chocolate with cream and mallows, Earl Grey tea, and a variety of Twining's flavoured teas.

Feed is actually situated in one of a number of arches underneath the railway line. Because of this, it has a curved ceiling and walls, as though you were in a short tunnel. The walls are exposed brickwork, and I realise that some people may be put off that this is a very small and not very stylish eatery. Others, however, will appreciate the originality of the setting and prefer Feed to the chain restaurants and the crowds of Gunwharf Quays.

My bill came to £7.50 to which I added a tip. Several young waitresses were on hand at Feed, and they were welcoming, friendly and efficient, just as they had been at Olivo in Ryde. I was alone yet did not feel uncomfortable in any way.

There is just one unisex toilet at Feed with a rather strange folding door that closes with a hook. Other than black grouting between the tiles, it was clean; turning the tap on and off, however, was almost beyond me as there wasn't anything much to get hold of! I had to tell one of the waitresses that I hadn't been able to turn it off properly and she kindly said she would see to it.

This is obviously a much smaller and simpler place than Olivo Restaurant in Ryde, but it nevertheless had a similar feel to it. The food was very good, and the place does seem popular despite the competition from Gunwharf Quays. I believe Feed is open until about 7.30pm, and it is in an ideal location for anyone visiting Portsmouth Historic Dockyard or for those who want to get away from the crowds at the shops. It may not have the views of the eateries at the waterfront, but it offers good food and a welcoming atmosphere that is genuinely refreshing.

Feed Caffe

Arch No. 7

The Hard

Portsmouth

PO1 4DT

Spinnaker Tower Cafe-Bar

Every so often I meet an old schoolfriend for lunch at Gunwharf Quays. As she is allergic to both wheat and dairy products, we have usually gone to Cafe Giardino for jacket potatoes. Sadly, Giardino has turned into the Italian Kitchen offering pizzas, pasta and salads, all under £5. Pizza and pasta are of course no good for my friend, and on a cold December day a salad was not too appealing. Arriving early, I wandered around studying menus and discovered that the Spinnaker-Tower Cafe-Bar was the only eatery offering jacket potatoes.

The Tower Cafe is situated at the base of the Spinnaker Tower, and if you visit the tower you will come out into it following your descent in the lift. You can, however, enter the cafe-bar without visiting the tower itself. It is almost hexagonal in shape with floor-to-ceiling glass around the half that faces the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour. It is very close to the water's edge and the views are excellent, although the day of our visit the weather was unfortunately grey and damp. In fine weather you can sit outside, but obviously nobody was doing so on that particular day. There are several entrances in the glass-fronted section; I walked around looking for a menu but ended up peering through the glass and reading what was written on the boards above the bar.

We arrived just after 12.30pm and noticed that there were quite a few empty tables but sadly none by the windows. We didn't have to wait long to be served at the bar. The board simply said that jacket potatoes were priced from £3.15 and on enquiring we were told that the toppings available were cheese, beans, tuna mayonnaise or prawns. Both of us chose tuna. I ordered a regular cappucino and my friend asked for tea with soya milk. I wasn't given an itemised receipt, but the total bill came to £13.45. Our drinks were served in mugs on a tray, the milk in a separate small jug, and the jacket potatoes were brought to us when they were ready.

The tables are all round and most have four chairs although the ones by the windows just have three. You could squeeze an extra chair in if you needed, possibly even two if you have young children with you. After we had been there a while every table was taken (it was post-Christmas sale time) and it became difficult for people to squeeze through the narrow spaces between chairs at adjoining tables. I was once asked if I could move in a little and didn't find this easy as the chairs are quite deep.

We didn't have to wait long for our food to be served. It came on oval plates with a small bowl of salad next to the potato. The salad consisted of a cherry tomato cut in half, a thick slice of cucumber cut in half and some rocket leaves – not a huge serving, but at least the rocket made a change from lettuce. There was also a sachet of Heinz Salad Cream as well as little packets of salt and pepper. The potatoes were a good size, well cooked and nice and hot; the tuna was a generous serving. I can't say my cappucino was the best I've ever tasted, but it wasn't bad. I should perhaps mention that the top was sprinkled with chocolate without my being asked if I wanted any, so you would have to specify no chocolate if you prefer an unadulterated taste to your coffee. After about an hour we decided we wanted to stay and chat a bit longer, so my friend ordered another mug of tea and I had an espresso which I did enjoy.

Even if you are not in search of the humble jacket potato which seems to have become such a rarity, the Tower Cafe-Bar is not a bad place to rest your weary legs while visiting Gunwharf Quays. You can choose from sandwiches, paninis or baguettes, salads, or soup with bread. There is a special offer of a sandwich with any regular drink for £3.99. For £2.99 children can have a sandwich, mini cheddars, yoghurt, raisins and pure fruit juice – quite a healthy lunch. Frosted milkshakes are available in a variety of flavours, and being a bar, the place is of course fully licensed. You could just have a drink and a cake, and I noticed a freezer full of Ben and Jerry's ice cream on our way out.

There are unisex toilets on the premises which are kept reasonably clean. They are on the same level as the cafe.

The service at the Tower Cafe-Bar was polite and efficient, and I noticed that the waiting staff regularly did the rounds of the tables to clear away any trays that had been finished with. We stayed about two hours altogether, and although it was crowded we were not made to feel that we had outstayed our welcome.

I would certainly recommend the Spinnaker Tower Cafe-Bar as a good choice for a light lunch or a snack. Part of its appeal does lie in the view it affords of the entrance to the harbour, which I appreciated even on a grey, wintery day. I would also think it is a healthier choice for families than a fast-food restaurant, while still offering reasonable prices. It is open every day except Christmas Day from 10am until 6pm.

Brasserie Blanc, Gunwharf Quays

We had wanted to sample the delights of Brasserie Blanc in Gunwharf Quays one evening in October, but without a reservation we would have had to wait about an hour for a table. Late one Saturday afternoon in December, I rang to see if I could book a table for three for 3pm the following day, and luckily this was possible. As soon as we arrived on the Sunday, we were greeted by a receptionist who checked our reservation and led us past a beautiful Christmas tree to a table not far from a window from which there was a view of the canalside and the Spinnaker Tower.

Menus were distributed before we had even sat down. I was glad to find that plenty of coat hooks were provided.

Linen tablecloths are used but they are covered with white paper cloths set diagonally. Napkins are large linen ones. As well as the usual cruet, there is a bottle of oil on each table. We had wooden chairs with comfortable leather backs and seats, but I noticed that some tables had all wooden ones. We loved the colourful paintings, all depicting food, which contrasted well with the black and white photographs, some of Raymond Blanc teaching a younger chef, which hang above the counter. Behind the counter the kitchen area is clearly visible. We remarked on how clean everything was.

A Christmas menu, £25 for three courses, was available on the day of our visit but we hadn't come for anything quite so special and decided to order a la carte. An extensive drinks menu was handed to us but all we wanted was a glass of fruit juice each of a different flavour – orange, pineapple and apple (£2.10) which was served with ice. We were also brought a jug of tap water, with separate glasses of course. Starters range in price from £5.45 to £6.95 and in variety from Mediterranean fish soup through Burgundian snails in garlic herb butter to Maman Blanc's miscellany of salads. We decided just to share one of the aperitifs, however, which consisted of garlic mayonnaise, harissa olives, balsamic vinegar and slices of French bread served with butter (£2.75). This is intended for one person, but as our serving of bread was replenished it was more than enough and did not spoil our appetites. The garlic mayonnaise in particular was gorgeous, and the waitress commented herself on how much she liked it.

The main courses on the lunch menu start at £8.75 for Swiss chard and cep mushroom lasagne and rise to £17.00 for Roast Barbary duck breast with blackberry sauce and Dauphinoise potatoes. There is also a selection of grills priced between £15.00 and £26.50. The waitress came along with a blackboard indicating the day's special, roast beef, roast potatoes and a selection of vegetables for £14.50. The fact that the beef was medium rare made us decline this option. My son's partner decided on Loch Fyne mussels in white wine and cream served with chips (£13.00). My son and I both considered the lasagne as well as Raymond's smoked River Avon salmon and trout fish cake (£11.00) but eventually both ordered Beef Stroganoff with pilaf rice (£10.25). I don't usually go for red meat but felt that this could be a good occasion to do so for a change. Side salads and vegetables can be ordered, mostly for £2.75, but our waitress thought the mussels and chips would be fine on their own and I certainly thought my main dish would be filling.

Soon after we had ordered the waitress brought a finger bowl for the mussels along with a soup spoon, as she explained that a lot of people like to drink the sauce of the mussels like soup after they have finished eating. It was a while before the food was served, as you would expect, but not overly long. The mussels came in their cooking pot with chips in a small side dish. The stroganoff was served in deep round plates, each with a mould of garnished rice in the centre. Our immediate reaction was that the sauce tasted wonderful and was of a perfect consistency but that the beef was not as tender as we had thought it might be. Slices of mushroom were plentiful alongside the beef. The mussels were highly appreciated as were the chips, and yes, my son's partner enjoyed the sauce so much that he did use that soup spoon. The waitress was passing as he did, and she chirruped 'I knew you would!'

My son had no hesitation in saying he wanted to see the dessert menu, so we were each brought one on a small card. The waitress mentioned that there was also a chocolate tart with coffee crème anglaise for a mere £3.50 – the coffee-chocolate combination and the modest price meant my mind was immediately made up. My son decided on apple and blackberry crumble (£5.20) but his partner wanted something light so he picked the selection of ice creams (£5.50). Four scoops of ice cream are served, and he chose coffee, chocolate, pistachio and hazelnut. Strawberry and vanilla were also offered.

We were all delighted with our desserts when they arrived. My chocolate tart was rich in flavour without being too sweet or sickly, and the coffee crème added interest to the taste. The ice cream was drizzled with two kinds of coulis and sandwiched between two irregular-shaped wafers. The crumble was topped with a scoop of ice cream and looked delicious – something I would definitely try another time.

My son and his partner decided to order tea and coffee as they were going to the cinema and still had a little time to kill. I would like to try the coffee there, but I was feeling very full and it was a little late in the day for caffeine so I contented myself with my glass of water. The coffee was declared to be very good, so that's a perfect excuse for me to go back.

Our bill came to £60.55 to which we added a tip. I could remember that the last time the three of us had been to Rosie's Vineyard in Southsea we had paid the same amount there. Whilst the food at Rosie's is always very good, the service is not up to the standard of the Brasserie Blanc. The previous Sunday my son and I had waited half an hour at Rosie's just to place an order. The furnishings and décor at Brasserie Blanc are also superior to Rosie's. I should emphasise that the prices on the dinner menu are higher than those on the lunch menu at Brasserie Blanc. It is also worth mentioning, however, that some dishes are available in smaller portions and at lower prices for children.

I visited the ladies upstairs and found it to be extremely clean. Two bottles of liquid soap were provided: it was a French brand called 'Le Cuisinier' and was intended for cooks, to remove lingering odours. Two bottles, but three washbasins – had somebody pocketed a third bottle? I was amused to find 'The Fox and the Grapes', one of Lafontaine's fables, written out in French as I climbed the stairs, and I lingered to read it. When I got to the top of the stairs, there was the English translation. On returning to our table, I realised that another of the fables was written along the top of one wall, again translated on the adjacent wall. A lovely touch.

Just by the entrance are some shelves displaying French foods such as jars of conserves and packets of biscuits, any of which can be purchased. There are also one or two books by Raymond Blanc. If you arrive early or have to wait for a table, there is an area where you can sit and have a drink by the bar.

The only criticism I would make from my first visit to Brasserie Blanc would be that the beef was not as tender as I had expected it to be. Other than that, I cannot find fault at all with the menu, the food, the service or the ambiance. The dinner menu is a little out of my price range, but I am sure we will return to Brasserie Blanc every now and again for lunch. It stands head and shoulders above almost all the other restaurants in Gunwharf Quays at the present time. Raymond Blanc's wish was to create a relaxing atmosphere in which to enjoy good food similar to that cooked by his mother, and he has surely succeeded here.

Brasserie Blanc

Canalside

Gunwharf Quays

Portsmouth

PO1 3FA

Tel. 023 9289 1320

www.brasserieblanc.com

The Aspex Gallery, Portsmouth

Originally situated in a small side street of Southsea, the Aspex Gallery was able to move to grander surroundings in December 2006. It is now housed on the ground floor of the imposing Vulcan Building in Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth. Gunwharf Quays is a shopping complex that also has a cinema, bowling alley, various eateries on the waterfront, and a hotel; it attracts crowds of visitors from surrounding areas such as the Isle of Wight, Gosport, Fareham, Hayling Island, Petersfield and Havant as well as the inhabitants of Portsmouth itself and Southsea. Such a location is a prestigious one.

The gallery, however, is not particularly easy to find. Once in Gunwharf, head to your left in an easterly direction and look out for the Loch Fynne Restaurant, also in part of the Vulcan Building. Follow the path between Loch Fynne and Cafe Rouge, and then turn right into the Vulcan's courtyard; you should then see the Aspex Gallery on the left.

I visited the gallery just after five o'clock one Saturday afternoon and was dismayed to find that I was the only visitor, although a young couple did come in while I was there. The gallery closes at 6pm, and it may be that it had been busier earlier in the day, or that it attracts more visitors on weekdays, with weekenders being more interested in shopping or the movies.

The gallery comprises an exhibition area, an educational area, a glass-fronted room offering resources for local artists, a coffee shop, and a shop selling jewellery, crafts, art magazines, ceramics, artists' prints and greetings cards. Aspex presents exhibitions of the work of contemporary artists from both Portsmouth and the international scene. At the time of my visit, the biennial 'Emergency' exhibition was showing; it is open to artists the world over, and one of the chosen few is later given the opportunity of a solo exhibition. There was certainly a diverse range of media on show, from the figurative but bordering-on-abstract canvases of Paul Becker through the quasi-erotic prints of Benjamin Senior to the impressive group of totem-like wood sculptures of Cathy Ward and Eric Wright. I did, however, feel that perhaps a slightly greater number of artists could have been given an opportunity to showcase their work here, as several of the artists were exhibiting more than one piece.

But Aspex is more than just a gallery. It is part of the 'arc' or Artists' Resource Centre network that extends across south-east England, providing support for practising artists in the local area. This support can take the form of one-to-one surgeries, use of the computers and journals in Aspex's resource centre, discussion groups with fellow artists, or presentations on methods of practice or current opportunities for artists. Such networking and support could be of crucial importance to artists in the early stages of their career, especially for example when they have recently graduated and find themselves on their own, trying to make their way without the support and facilities of an educational establishment.

Children of school age can also participate here in holiday and Saturday clubs. Schools and colleges are able to plan group visits, and talks and tours are organized from time to time for both specialists in the field and those who wish to find out more about contemporary art. It is even possible to hire the gallery for events such as cocktail parties or product launches.

If you are looking for a quiet place in Gunwharf Quays to enjoy lunch or coffee away from the crowds, the Aspex coffee shop would be ideal. Kids' Art Lunch Boxes with organic drinks and activity sheets are available there. It also from time to time hosts film screenings and performances.

The Aspex Gallery is situated on the ground floor and is accessible to disabled visitors; guide dogs are welcome. Aspex allows breast feeding, and baby-changing facilities are available in the toilet by the Education Studio.

Opening hours from Tuesday to Friday are from 11am until 6pm, and on Sunday from noon until 5pm. The gallery is closed on Monday.

If you are travelling by rail, alight at Portsmouth Harbour Station; Gunwharf Quays is just five minutes' walk from here. By road, take the M27 and then the M275 into Portsmouth; Gunwharf Quays Car Park is clearly signposted along the way.

Information on forthcoming exhibitions and events is available at the website: www.aspex.org.uk .

Aspex

The Vulcan Building

Gunwharf Quays

Portsmouth

PO1 3BF

Abarbistro

The Camber Dock area of Old Portsmouth is one that I was not particularly familiar with, but I suspect I will be visiting it more often in the future. My brother and his wife live just a hop, skip and a jump from there and often go for a bite to eat at Abarbistro, formerly known as the American Bar. My younger son was coming from Bristol one weekend and we thought it was about time we had a family lunch, so my brother booked a table for 1pm on the Sunday at Abarbistro. I was actually so unsure as to how to get there that I decided a taxi was the best bet, but next time I won't need to do so. You can turn off High Street into Lombard Street, by Portsmouth Cathedral, or you can go from Broad Street down White Hart Road. If you are coming from Gunwharf Quays, turn right and follow Gunwharf Road. Alternatively, you can take Warblington Street off St George's Road. In other words, just about all roads lead to Abarbistro. If you are confused, follow your nose to the fish market, which is right close by.

The place itself doesn't look anything special from the outside. The building dates from the late eighteenth century and was apparently once a place where convicts were brought as they waited to be shipped off to a penal colony in the States – hence the name The American Bar. Abarbistro has whitewashed walls with blue window frames, and recent renovations include three glass doors which give views of the Spinnaker Tower. As we went inside, I was surprised at how stylish the restaurant is. We were taken through the front area to a separate room that resembled a conservatory with blinds across the glass roof and extensive windows that overlooked the garden area. It was a beautifully sunny spring day and was the ideal place to sit. I am sure the garden would be wonderful on a fine summer's day.

Menus were brought to us as soon as we sat down at the light wood tables. My brother and his wife are apparently quite well known there and the waiters and waitresses were very friendly, but I had the impression that they would have been even if we had all been first-time visitors. Our drinks order was soon taken. My brother and younger son both decided on cider. As my son has been living in Bristol for some months now, he has become quite particular about his cider, but all that was on offer was Bulmer's draught or a pear cider. Neither really impressed, but the Bulmer's at £3.50 a pint was chosen. The rest of us decided on a bottle of red wine, and the waitress recommended Zarabanda Rioja at £14. We all approved of her choice.

We decided to go straight into the main course, but if you did want a starter they range from olives and focaccia at £2 through a plate of anchovies at £4 to rabbit terrine with prune chutney at £6. Soup of the day is £5, and on that particular day it was broccoli.

Specials were seafood pasta (£9) or catch of the day, which was rainbow trout, for £13. There was also a lamb shank roast at £10. We all, however, chose our main course from the standard menu. I decided on the fishcake with spinach and Hollandaise sauce (£10), whilst my younger son opted for sausages (from local butcher Buckwell's) and mash (£8). My elder son chose beer-battered fish and chips with pea puree (£8), and his partner picked camembert stuffed chicken wrapped in parma ham with ratatouille (£12), My brother and his wife both went for roast belly of pork with colcannon and cider sauce (£10), perhaps influenced by the recommendation from the author of a review that had appeared in the local paper two days earlier. My sister-in-law ordered an extra portion of green beans at £2.

Vegetarian options include Moroccan vegetable tagine with cous cous (£8) or roasted root vegetables with celeriac dauphinoise (£11).

We did not have to wait long for our food to be served. I was amazed when I saw my fishcake, which was a huge, rounded one sitting on the bed of spinach and covered in Hollandaise sauce. The taste lived up to expectations too. I don't know exactly what fish it had been made with, but the predominant colour was pink. It was not at all salty and the sauce just gave a slight sweetness. Even though there was no mash or chips with it, for me it was more than enough. The three sausages sitting on top of the mash did not look like a large portion on arrival, but appearances were deceptive and my son was quite satisfied with his choice. The pork belly, stuffed chicken and fish and chips were also enjoyed by everyone. The pea puree in particular was said to be the best ever tasted. Not a single complaint from any of us.

My younger son and I were both very full after our main courses, so as we are both ardent fans of coffee we restricted ourselves to the boule of espresso ice cream with a cup of espresso (£2). My sister-in-law picked the crème brulee which came with a shortbread biscuit (£5). The other three were all tempted by the apple and blackberry crumble with vanilla ice cream (£5). Service had slowed down considerably by this time, although it has to be said that the place was extremely busy by about 2pm. Fortunately we were not in a hurry.

I was delighted by my espresso ice cream, but I have to say that the unanimous approval of the apparently heavenly crumble made me feel that I would have to leave room for it next time I visit. To follow the espressos we just asked for a glass of water, but my elder son still had room for hot chocolate and the other three in the party ordered filter coffee. All hot drinks are £2.

The bill came to £113 to which we added a tip, making an average of £20 per head. There are one or two cheaper ways of doing things at Abarbistro that I will definitely bear in mind. If you just want to go for a light meal and a drink, you could opt for a hot brie and bacon baguette for £4, or even just a cone of home-cut chips for £3. On the first Friday of every month between 5.30pm and 7pm (last orders 6.45pm) you can have haddock, chips, tartare sauce and mushy peas followed by sticky toffee pudding, all for £10. You can of course just go and have a drink.

Don't be put off visiting Abarbistro with your offspring, even if they are considerably younger than mine. There was one gorgeously well-behaved baby in a high chair not far from us as well as several children, mostly in the garden area.

The toilets are on the ground floor, so there should be no problems for disabled people.

Abarbistro is open from 11am until midnight Mondays to Saturdays, and from noon until 11pm on Sundays. You can park free of charge outside the restaurant or on Lombard Street, the street that runs down to Portsmouth Cathedral.

Should you be visiting Gunwharf Quays and want to get away from the crowds, Abarbistro is only a few minutes' walk away. Southsea sea front is only about ten or fifteen minutes on foot. Abarbistro definitely makes a very pleasant change from chain restaurants.

Abarbistro

58 White Hart Road

Old Portsmouth

Hampshire

PO1 2JA

Tel. 023 9281 1585

www.abarbistro.co.uk

In for a pound

If you want to sit outside and have a meal right at the Waterfront in Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth, the choice is between Pizza Express, Zizzi, La Tasca and Tootsies. Zizzi would probably have been my first choice anyway, but the fact that I had a voucher whereby you paid for one main meal and got another for just £1 meant there was no contest. It was about 2pm on Sunday and, with the sun shining, the crowds were out. When we requested a table for three outside, we could see there was one empty but were asked to wait for about five minutes while things were organised. There was a small corner with chairs for those waiting, but it wasn't long before we were shown to our table. This actually consisted of two square tables pushed together, and the upright chairs were certainly comfortable. Some of the outside tables are shaded by a parasol, but ours was open to the welcome sunshine. Cutlery and paper serviettes were already laid, and there were salt and pepper pots at one end. A waitress immediately brought us our menus. She soon returned to take our drinks order. We each ordered fruit juice – either apple or orange are available at £2.25 a glass.

When it came to food, we ordered some mixed olives (£2.25) from the starter section to share between us. The main menu is divided into several sections: Pasta and Risotto, Pizza and Calzone, Carne e Pesce (Meat and Fish) and Insalate (Salads). I was tempted by both the grilled salmon fillet and the seafood risotto, but they were a little pricey so I eventually decided on Penne della Casa (£8.95) consisting of smoked pancetta, roasted chicken, creamy mushroom sauce and baby spinach finished with grated grana padano cheese and baked 'al forno' (in the oven). My son had had a Wagamama curry the day before and felt he should make a healthy choice, so he went for the Insalata Nicoise (£8.25) with yellowfin tuna, anchovies, hard boiled egg, olives, capers, potatoes, santos tomatoes and mixed leaves. His partner ordered a Trentino pizza (£9.50) whose toppings are smoked mountain ham, buffalo milk mozzarella, santos tomatoes, rocket and grana padano cheese. He asked for the rustico base which is larger, thinner, and crispier; it costs an extra £1.95 as there is room for more toppings.

Once we had placed our order, large bottles of olive oil and mayonnaise were brought to the table, each with a folded paper serviette around its neck to catch the drips. It was only about ten minutes before the waitress brought my Penne della Casa, but there was no immediate sign of anything else. I was urged to start eating so that my pasta didn't turn cold. We had actually expected the olives to be served before the main course, but this didn't happen. It was several minutes before the salad and pizza were served, with the olives coming last of all. The pizza was served on a board and looked huge to me, although the base was very thin, and the salad was also a very generous serving. We were all enjoying what we had ordered when, out of the blue, a passing waiter dropped a pound coin on the table and it bounced before landing slap bang in the middle of the pizza. I'm afraid I couldn't help laughing. The waiter was, of course, mortified, and asked my son's partner if he would like another pizza. Monetary coins are not the cleanest of objects, and the reply was a polite but affirmative one. This did, of course, entail a wait of perhaps another ten minutes, so my son and I tried to eat as slowly as we could. My son's partner nibbled away at the olives while he was waiting, and the replacement pizza eventually came. He managed to demolish it with no further mishaps.

I certainly enjoyed my pasta dish with its creamy sauce, roast chicken, whole spinach leaves and crisp grated cheese on the surface. Some pieces of the pancetta were a little chewy, but overall it was an excellent balance of flavours. All three of us were very satisfied with the quality of the food. We didn't honestly have room for dessert, but I noticed two ladies at the next table tucking into large portions of apple crumble with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top. This is the most expensive dessert at £5.25; ice cream is the cheapest at £3.50.

The waitress offered us coffee on the house, presumably as a gesture to make up for the bouncing pound coin. None of us really wanted coffee, however, and we felt that the fact that the pizza had been replaced quite made up for the accident. Our bill came to a total of just over £30; without the voucher it would have been about £38. We added a ten per cent tip.

Full marks to Zizzi for their toilets, in which a hand basin and drier are provided in each cubicle. This should avoid any likelihood of germs on the door handle, provided of course that everyone does actually wash their hands.

While I was in the ladies, the waiter apparently came over and apologised profusely for the unfortunate landing of the pound coin in the pizza. He was perhaps grateful that there hadn't been any angry outbursts on our part. As we were leaving, he made a point of shaking my son's partner's hand, and they parted amicably. So I would say that the accident was very well dealt with and I wouldn't level any criticism at Zizzi.

As pizza restaurants go, I much prefer Zizzi to Strada and also Pizza Express. I did particularly enjoy both Ask in Bath and Prezzo in Chichester, but I would say that Zizzi is the best of the bunch in Portsmouth. I would happily go again.